How to inspect a used car - illustrated used car checklist

Many used cars can have hidden problems that aren't obvious during a test-drive. We hope this guide will help you recognise signs of potential problems and make a more informed decision.

We recommend to have the vehicle inspected by a knowledgeable mechanic before signing the deal. There are many things that can only be properly inspected when the car is lifted on the hoist. For example, many used car buyers arrange to have the pre-purchase inspection done a local dealer specialized in that brand.

During a quick overview, you want to find out if it's worth to check the car further or should you move on to the next? Start with the quick walk-around. Major rust spots like this one should tell you to avoid this car. Check the interior. How does the steering wheel, driver's seat and the inner door handle look like? Any smells? Tobacco and other strong odors are difficult to get rid of. Can you find a comfortable driving position? Is there enough legroom and headroom? How is the visibility? Check if the car has the features that are important for you, such as the cruise control or a USB port.
The easiest way to detect engine problems is to start it cold, after the car was sitting for a while. Ask the seller or salesperson to start the engine; is there any smoke from the exhaust? Does the engine run rough or rattle when started? In either case, avoid the car. The engine should run smooth. If you think that this car is worth checking further, start from the body. If you are planning to inspect several cars, it might be a good idea to take photos of each car (if allowed) including flaws and features so you can review them later.

It's difficult to check the car when it's parked in a tight spot; ask the salesperson to park it in an open area, so you can have a better access to all sides. Have a look at the car from a distance; this way it's easier to spot if the color of some panels doesn't match. Colors certainly don't match in this photo; this red Toyota have gone through some body repair. Walk around the car and mark (or take photos if allowed) all the dents, scratches and other flaws.

Look carefully at the windshield. Note any chips, scratches or other damage. Some chips and star cracks, if large enough, can cause the vehicle to fail a safety inspection. Replacing the windshield costs from $250 to $800.

This scratch was made by the metal part of the broken windshield wiper. This scratch will produce a glare when driving at night. Similar scratches can be made by sand caught under the wiper blades.

Look at the reflection from the body panels; it's easy to spot difference in the paint texture and unevenness that could be signs of previous body repairs. The side of this car looks like it has never been damaged. Click on the image for larger view.

If you look closely at this photo (click to enlarge), you can see that texture of the paint appears rough and the door is not very straight. It looks like there was some body repair here. It could be something minor, but at least, this area needs to be further investigated.

This car has been rear-ended. Even after the repair, you can see that the rear fender still doesn't look very straight. Click to see the larger view, look closely at the reflection.

This car is badly rusted and we would recommend to avoid it, as the rust can be repaired only temporarily. If you suspect a rust repair, try to to place your magnet at the suspected area, if there is no metal under the paint, the magnet won't stick.

Check the tires. Do they look worn out? Do they have cuts or other damage like this one in the photo? This tire will need to be replaced. Are the tires of a reputable brand? All 4 tires should be of the same brand. Does it appear that tires worn out unevenly (e.g. more on the inside)? This would indicate possible wheel alignment issue.

This tire has a bulge on the sidewall and must be replaced. A bulge is not repairable and the tire with the damage like this is unsafe to drive.

New tires have tread depth from 10/32' to 11/32'. This is how the new tire looks like; click on the image to see larger view. New tires like this can last up to 50,000 miles.

This tire is worn out (it's about 2/32'), which means this car needs new tires. A set of tires, depending on the size and brand costs from $400 to $1200. You can look up the price at TireRack.com.

Test if both key fobs work. Typically a new car comes with two or three keys or key fobs; ask how many come with the car.

Check the condition of the seats, look for burnt marks and other damage. Minor damage can be repaired, ask if the dealer can arrange for the repairs. Check the condition of the seat belts.

Rear wiper is another part that often has problems in older cars. Test all wipers and washer functions.

Test power windows, power locks and mirrors. Window regulator problems are common in many older cars. Sometimes a window goes down well, but goes up very slow or crooked.

Problems with heated seats are very common and a heated element could be quite expensive to replace. Test both seats.

Check all the controls, including the audio system. If the car has a CD player or AUX / USB input, check if it works.

Make sure to test the air conditioner; air conditioner problems are common in used cars. With the engine running, turn the A/C on. You should feel cold air coming from the vents soon after the A/C is turned on.
Test all the heater fan speed settings; it's a common problem when the heater fan works only at high speed settings. Watch out for musty smell from the vents. A burnt oil smell from the vents indicate possible oil leaks in the engine compartment. An antifreeze smell is a sign of a problem too.

If the vehicle has the rear heater/AC controls, make sure everything works there too.

Check the manufacturer's label; usually you can find it on the driver's door or on the door jamb. Besides the VIN number that you might need to check the history records, the label contains the manufacturing date. The manufacturing date is different from the model year. For example, the model year of this car is 1997, but as you can see, it was assembled in August 1996. Another 1997 car could be assembled in June 1997, which would be a better choice all else being equal.

If a car has been flooded, it's more likely to develop many problems in the future. Modern cars have many electronic components under the carpet and around the foot wells that can get damaged if submerged under water.

This car in the photo has been flooded during a heavy rain. You still can see the water level mark in the speaker cover. Look for signs of moisture under the carpet. Check the trunk and the spare tire well for signs of water damage. A history report can also reveal flood damage. Be suspicious if the history report indicates that the car came from the flood area.

Check if the car has the spare tire and the jack. If the wheels have wheel locks installed, make sure there is the key for the wheel locks.

Minor leaks are fairly common in high-mileage cars, but all else being equal, you are better off with the car that has no leaks at all. In addition, leaks (coolant leaks especially) could point to more serious problems. This car, for example, has a coolant leak from a small crack in the radiator. The engine runs fine, however, upon further mechanical inspection, we found that the head gasket started leaking in this car. A head gasket repair is very expensive. Look for leaks under the car; the only thing that should be dripping from under the car is water from the air conditioner drain tube when the A/C is running. The A/C drain tube is typically located under the passenger side of the firewall. Any other leak (coolant, engine oil, transmission fluid, etc.) points to a problem. The smell of burnt oil or antifreeze under the hood is another indication of possible leaks.

The battery terminal in this car is badly corroded. Not only this car needs a new battery and probably a new battery cable, this suggests that this car probably hasn't been serviced regularly.

Here is another example: this bolt clearly looks out of place in this car (click on the image to see larger view). There supposed to be an engine mount in this place, but it's missing in this Toyota. This obviously doesn't look like a high-quality repair.

If you are uncomfortable with these these tests, leave them for your mechanic. Make sure the engine is off and the parking brake is applied. Find the engine oil dipstick (usually it has a bright handle that says" Engine Oil." Pull the dipstick out and check the oil level and condition. If the oil looks very dirty and the oil level is very low, it means that either the engine consumes oil, or it has been poorly maintained. Check the condition of the dipstick itself; if it's covered with black deposits, it's also a sign of poor maintenance.

With the engine off, open the oil filler cap and look inside the engine; use your flashlight. If the internal engine parts that you can see are covered with thick black deposits, it's also an indication of poor engine condition.

If you can find the transmission fluid dipstick (not all cars have one), check the transmission fluid condition. To see better, drop some fluid on a white paper towel. Transmission fluid should be clean and transparent. Very dirty transmission fluid that has a burnt smell is a sign of excessive transmission wear.