Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor
Air fuel (A/F) ratio sensor
Vehicle fuel injection systems relied on a conventional oxygen sensor since the 80's. In the early 00's an oxygen sensors started to be replaced by air fuel ratio sensors. An air fuel ratio, or simple air fuel (A/F) sensor is more precise and measures oxygen content of the exhaust in a wider range. It looks very similar to an old oxygen sensor except that it has more wires.
The air fuel ratio sensor is installed in the exhaust manifold or in the front exhaust pipe, before the catalytic converter. The main job of the air fuel ratio sensor is to measure the oxygen content of the exhaust and provide the feedback to the engine computer (PCM). Based on air fuel ratio sensor signal, the computer adjusts the air to fuel ratio to keep it at the optimum level, which is about 14.7:1.
Air fuel ratio sensor problems
Problems with air fuel ratio sensors are common. Often a sensor gets contaminated or simply fails. In some cars, the heating element inside the sensor fails causing the malfunction. For example, in many Toyota and Honda cars the code P0135 may be caused by a failed heating element inside the sensor. See how the heating element of the A/F sensor is checked in this article: code P0135. In some cars, a sensor wiring may get shorted out after rubbing against metal parts. For example, in older Mazda 3, the sensor wire may rub against the bracket and short out causing the code P0131. When the engine computer detects that the air fuel ratio sensor signal is out of expected range it illuminates the check engine light. Most common OBDII trouble codes related to an air fuel ratio sensor are P0134, P0135, P0133, P0031 and P1135. Are there any symptoms beside the Check Engine light? In some cars you may notice a drop in the fuel economy or some minor driveability issues.
Air fuel ratio sensor diagnostic
An air fuel ratio sensor needs to be diagnosed following a specific procedure for the trouble code that was detected. The first step is to check for related technical service bulletins. Then, depending on the trouble code, the sensor signal must be tested with a scan tool or wiring, connector or the sensor heater circuit must be checked. Often, the sensor may work properly at the time of the inspection. In this case your mechanic may recommend replacing the air fuel ratio sensor to eliminate possibility of an intermittent fault. It makes sense, since an air fuel ratio sensor deteriorates over time anyway.
Air fuel ratio sensor replacement
Replacing the air fuel ratio sensor
When replacing an air fuel sensor there is often a choice to install an OEM or aftermarket part. We came across several cases where an aftermarket sensor was causing problems that were fixed after an OEM sensor was installed. If the dealer part price is reasonable, it's best to install an OEM part. Aftermarket sensors work fine in most cases. For California-certified cars, the part number for the air fuel ratio sensor might be different. It's best to order the correct part using your VIN number.
Replacing an air fuel ratio sensor costs $65-$320 part and $50-$150 labor. To replace an air fuel ratio sensor at home, you might need a special socket (in the photo). Often a sensor may come loose initially but then seize up in the tread. In this case it must be worked slowly back and forth using some penetrating spray.
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