Car noises: common sources, examples, solutions

A loose drive belt can slip causing a loud high-pitch squealing or screeching noise. Usually you can hear it when the engine is just started or when the steering wheel is turned to the limit in either side. It is a fairly simple job to adjust the drive belt tension, so it shouldn't cost you a lot when you take your vehicle to a mechanic. Driving with a loose drive belt can cause many problems, e.g. low battery charge, overheating, lack of power-steering assist, etc. Read more about a drive belt.
A worn-out drive belt can cause chirping or squeaking noise that is usually more noticeable after driving in the rain. This happens because water gets on the belt and washes off the dust. This type of noise can also be caused by misalignment of the belt pulleys. Have the drive belt checked, it's not an expensive part to replace.

A bad bearing in the alternator also can cause a similar noise. A faulty drive belt tensioner can cause a squealing or rattling noise. This was, for example, a common problem in a Toyota Corolla or Matrix. A worn bearing inside the belt tensioner or idler can cause a whining or buzzing noise. These parts are usually not very expensive

A timing belt works in a similar way as a drive belt and can produce similar noises. One thing is different, the timing belt can make a whirring noise when it rubs against the belt cover. If the belt is too tight or something is misaligned or not installed properly, it also can produce a similar noise. If noticed this type of noise after replacing a timing belt, have the installation of the timing belt re-checked.

The ball joint is a part of the front suspension. A worn out ball joint can cause a clunking or knocking noise coming from the front suspension. Depending on the design, a vehicle may have one, two, three or even four ball joints on each side of the front suspension. Sometimes, a ball joint comes as an assembly with a control arm. After the control arm assembly or a ball joint is replaced, the wheel alignment procedure usually needs to be performed. The repair could cost $200-600.

The tie rod is a part of the steering system. It is made of two parts: inner and outer tie rod ends (each can be replaced separately). A worn out tie rod end could cause a rattling or knocking noise from the front end. This type of noise is more noticeable when driving slow on a rough road. After the repair, the wheel alignment must be performed. This type of repair could cost $160-$300.

The sway or stabilizer bar is a part of the front and rear suspension. A bad sway bar link can cause knocking that is more noticeable when driving slow over small bumps. Worn out sway bar bushings also can cause a similar knocking or thumping noise. Either part is not very expensive to replace.

A bad top strut mount bearing could cause a clunking or popping noise coming from the front end while turning the steering, even when the car is stationary. It may feel like something jams and then releases when you turn the steering.

A bad steering shaft universal joint (u-joint) can cause a clunk in the steering column while turning. An excessive wear in the steering rack can also cause similar noises. The repair depends on the defective part.

Low power steering fluid level or air trapped in the hydraulic power steering system can cause loud moaning, buzzing or whining noise coming from under the hood when turning. Check your power steering fluid level and top up if it's low. Have your power steering system checked for leaks.

Many parts of the exhaust are protected by heat shields. Over time, heat shields rust and become loose. Loose exhaust heat shields are the common source of metallic rattle. Usually, the rattling noise comes from underneath the car. It might be louder at certain engine RPMs. Usually, the rattling noise comes from underneath the car. Play the video to see how it sounds. It might be louder at certain engine RPMs. This type of noise is easy to repair: the loose heat shields need to be re-secured.

This type of noise is easy to repair: the loose heat shields need to be re-secured. This is one of the ways how it can be done.

Exhaust leaks are very common. An exhaust leak sounds like if the car has no muffler, with the sound coming from underneath the car. The repair depends on where the leak is located. Sometimes the repair could be as simple as replacing one gasket. In other times, a part or parts of the exhaust system will need to be replaced. If the repair quote from your dealer is too high, try visiting one of the local muffler shops; their prices are much cheaper.

A leaking exhaust manifold can cause a ticking or tapping noise, which is typically louder when the engine is started; the noise could also be accompanied by the raw exhaust smell from the engine area. Usually this type of noise disappears or quiets down after the engine runs for a few seconds. The exhaust manifold leaks are usually caused by broken manifold studs or cracks in the exhaust manifold. For example, broken exhaust manifold studs were common in older Nissan V6 engines in the vehicles like the Pathfinder or Nissan Quest / Mercury Villager. The repair could be quite expensive if the exhaust manifold needs to be replaced.

A cupped tire can produce a humming noise that may sound like a bad wheel bearing. If you click the photo to see the larger image, you can see that the tire is not rounded along the tread. Its wear pattern has alternating flat and elevated spots. It's easy to feel it with your hand, moving it around the tread. Obviously this tire won't be quiet, especially at higher speeds. Cupping could be caused by lack of tire rotations, wheel alignment problems, tire design and other issues. There is no fix for cupped tires; the only solution is to replace tires.

A worn out front outer Constant Velocity joint or CV joint will typically produce a clicking or popping noise when driving through turns, especially with acceleration. Usually the CV joint goes bad after the CV boot is damaged (in the photo). In most cases, a whole drive shaft will need to be replaced and it could cost a few hundred dollars. Read more about CV joints.

A bad wheel bearing causes a humming or growling noise that gets louder at a certain speed. Often, a wheel bearing humming noise gets louder when turning to one side (e.g. when changing lanes) and quiets down when driving straight or turning to other side. Replacing a wheel bearing is a few hundred dollar repair. Read more about a wheel bearing.

A problem with a rear differential can cause a humming or growling noise from the rear end that gets worse with speed. Usually the rear differential will need to be rebuilt or replaced. Deteriorated oil in a limited slip differential could cause a chattering noise coming from the rear end during turns. For example, Honda CR-V is known to have this issue. Having differential oil changed with proper grade oil usually can fix the noise.